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Bruce Bell's History Show

south front west
The view west along the south side of Front St. from Church St.

front and scott in 1890
The view west from Front and Scott in 1890


Page three of
The History Around Front & Church Streets
The area surrounding C'est What

by Bruce Bell

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The Survivors

In the 1870's work began on the warehouses west of Church Street and they too remain relatively intact. In 1871 the building opposite C'est What on south west corner of Church and Front was originally home to P.G. Close Importers and a few years later a Mr. J.W Lang opened a wholesale grocery business there. His specialty was tea imported from Japan, India and Ceylon. To insure his tea was the very best he employed a full time tea-taster, a very novel and lucrative touch. Mr. Lang's building was unique because the front door was situated on an angle at the much-coveted corner-lot of Front and Church. During the numerous alterations the building has endured that door has long since disappeared but you can still see the rounded corner where it once was. The buildings original exterior was removed in 1960 and replaced with a layer of glazed white bricks. In 1970 stucco was applied and the painted-on relief work we see today was added.

Next door, now home to the offices of Toronto Life Magazine, Nanno Restaurant, V. Tony Hauser Photographer and Flatirons card shop, was in 1891 the import business of J.P. Clemes the former mayor of Port Hope who sold dried fruits and vegetables.

This small unpretentious block was built to a serve a purpose; to hold the goods a thriving 19th century city craved. When the wholesale business left the area, hundreds of warehouses just like it came crashing down. A few have miraculously survived thanks to heritage conscience developers like the late Philip Greey who could of easily replaced them with more lucrative mega structures. Mr. Greey also restored the west side of Church street, south of Front (the Keg and Papillon restaurants); the north side of The Esplanade west of Church (Old Spaghetti Factory, Esplanade Bier Garden and Fionn MacCool's Irish Pub). In doing so he rescued a unique grouping of once unassuming warehouses and factories from the wreckers ball.

The three buildings next door to the block are anything but unassuming. They are the most elaborate examples of high Victorian Romanticism left standing in Toronto and without these highly ornamented warehouses our city would be a poorer place.

The Dixon Building (45-49 Front street east) built in 1872, is Toronto's only remaining structure with a totally cast-iron facade. During the height of the industrial age anything made of steel was considered state of the art, you had to have it if you were to be considered leading edge. At one time the whole south end of Front street west of Yonge, where today the enormous Dominion Federal Building now stands, was known as the Iron block. Building after building all sported this new architectural innovation. The effect was to make the exterior look like carved stone, only less expensive.

On February 14 1872 a massive fire swept through the Iron block where not only did the facades literally melt onto the street in a messy liquefied heap of molten steel but also their heavy weight came crashing down on surrounding buildings.

The Dixon building, originally home to the Canada Vinegrowers and now occupied by Europe Bound and Nicholas Hoare was owned by real estate tycoon B. Homer Dixon who also built the wondrous 280 Queen west between Soho and Mcall streets. Next door at the Perkins warehouse, built in 1874 now home to Hikers Haven, you find the perfect example of what the businessmen of the 19th century wanted all whom came to Toronto to see, prosperity in the guise of a Venetian palazzo and its effect is truly stunning. This is a remarkable building and at one time the entire street was filled with buildings just like it. Next door the Beardmore Building -1872, now home to Frida's and yet another hiker paradise, Out There, was originally a world-renowned harness and saddle-making factory. Its namesake, leather king George Beardmore, also built one of the most beautiful homes in Toronto, still standing on Beverly Street across from the AGO, and is now the Italian Consulate.

What all these former warehouses share today is a stripped down, bare bricked, exposed beam ceiling, ground level interior. You can bet your life in their day they were anything but. With dark walnut paneling and heavily detailed ceilings, their insides were as opulent as their outsides.

From 1850 on, thanks to the railroad with its easy access to the Erie Canal, New York City and the world, Toronto overtook all other cities in Canada, with the exception of Montreal, to be the richest and most influential of them all. It had only been a mere 50 years since the time we were considered a backwater colonial outpost. In that short span, to prove to the world that we had arrived, a stunning metropolis with the look and feel of an ancient Imperial city was built. These last remaining warehouses with their powerful facades still intact are a true testament to that time.


And Then There Was One

As Toronto expanded our neighbourhood exploded with warehouses, financial intuitions, retail stores, hotels, houses, factories, train tracks and landfill. Hundreds of buildings sprang up in the blocks bounded by Parliament, The Esplanade, Yonge and King streets. According to an 1879 assessment map, 80 buildings once stood where Market Square now resides and another 30 stood where the grass now grows in St. James Park. Today any place you see a parking lot, an open patch of land or civic garden in the downtown core, a building once stood.

When the former O'Keefe and the St. Lawrence Centre For The Arts went up in the 1960's, approximately 15 buildings were demolished to make room. Another 15 were also destroyed to make way for the eventual construction of the mammoth EDS building across the street. Add to this the 20 or so that were demolished to make room for Berczy park and you've got a total of 50 buildings gone to make way for three. Just a few of the 20,000 structures that were eventually demolished in Toronto between 1955 and 1975.

One of the most magnificent adornments Front street ever held was the Board of Trade Building that once stood one the north east corner of Front and Yonge where Shopsys Deli now resides in the EDS building. With it's cone shaped roof this imposing structure (1888) was a cherished landmark and a perfect bookend to the Gooderham (Flatiron) building a few blocks east, before it was demolished in the early 1960's. For the next 20 years its site became a parking lot. All this makes me wonder why the Gooderham, standing alone, was spared. How could the developers of the 1960's miss the monetary advantage of being able to park that one last car at the much-coveted apex of Front and Church? Today it's easily the most photographed building in the city, but in its day the Gooderham (now owned by heritage minded developers Michael and Anne Tippin) was just another marvel awash in a sea of architecture marvels.

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flatiron building
The much photographed Flatiron (Gooderham & Worts) building between Wellington and Front at Church